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hdtv question
- Thread starter captex
- Start date
The highest resolution right now is 1920 x 1080 also called 1080p. This is going to be the highest resolution transmitted for broadcast HDTV (1080i) and whatever HD video disc format emerges the winner between HD-DVD and Blu-ray. A good forum to check out for more info on HDTV is www.avsforum.com but be warned they can be harsh on newbies and love to split hairs about image quality on HDTV.
As far as a good set your price per square inch will be lower for a full 1080p LCD vs 1080p Plasma. As long as you stick with the major players like Sony, Philips, Sharp you cant really go wrong quality wise
As far as a good set your price per square inch will be lower for a full 1080p LCD vs 1080p Plasma. As long as you stick with the major players like Sony, Philips, Sharp you cant really go wrong quality wise
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menotti1
Guest
Plasma prices are way down, heck Walmart has a 50 inch major brand for like 1600.00.only complaint about lcd is not being able to see the pic from an angle.they both have great pics.
i would go with the plasma.love my panasonic even though it's alot cheaper than what i paid for it.my tv tech says stay away from the DLP.having premature failures with them and they cost alot to repair..
i would go with the plasma.love my panasonic even though it's alot cheaper than what i paid for it.my tv tech says stay away from the DLP.having premature failures with them and they cost alot to repair..
menotti1 said:
The only problem with Plasma sets is the screens seem to be reflective, not a matte finish. If you have lots of room lights or windows, the reflections can be annoying. Both LCD and Plasma direct view sets can make amazing pictures.
DLP sets are a completely different technology, and for many they represent quite a bargain. If you want a really big picture (60” or more), they may be the best bet when you consider cost versus performance. Unlike Plasma or LCD direct view sets, they are a projection system. There are also LCD and ILA projection systems, as well as CRT rear projection systems. I’d avoid a CRT based rear projection system at most all costs. They served their purpose when that was all there was, but these days any of the other technologies will be better.
Rear projection systems make the set quite a bit deeper than a flat panel display. That may or may not be a concern, depending on your particular situation. With the exception of CRT’s, all of these rear projection systems use a high intensity light source. That lamp does have a reasonable rated life, but eventually, it will burn out and require replacement. On most sets, that is quite easy to do, and anyone who is handy with a screwdriver can do it. The problem is the lamp usually costs about $300 or more. You should factor that in when you make your decision. I'm on year four with a DLP set (A Samsung) and so far have not had to replace the lamp. I'm sure that will be coming sooner rather than later.
By the way, both Plasma and LCD direct view sets use a light source as well. It is usually a cold cathode fluorescent lamp, which should last for many years. But they too can fail.....
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menotti1
Guest
good point chuck, when i was shopping around the best tv tech in town said stay away from the dlp.had a few with tube failure shortly after the warranty expired. one lady said keep it, 300.00 to her wasn't worth fixing,replaced it with a lcd.But the DLP's i priced sure had good pics...
C
CW
Guest
K6JHU said:Plasma's run a lot hotter than LCD. You can keep your coffee warm by putting it in front of a Plasma
A number of TV manufacturers have decided to stop making plasmas and go for larger LCDs or DLPs...since the black level issue has been pretty well put to rest and the MTBF rate of plasmas has not settled, plus the repair rate of LCDs and DLPs have dropped, plasma is not worth the expense anymore.
BTW 1080p is NOT the same as 1080i.....the lines in 1080i are wrote to the screen 1,3,5,7,9, etc while progressive is 1,2,3,4,5,6,7, etc.
Any resolution 480p or i and lower is Standard Def (close enough to regular analog)
720p and 1080i are the two common standards that broadacasters will use....If you use a 1080p TV, you wont pick up any extra definition on anything less and the only folks using 1080p will be HD DVD or maybe the sats....BUT right now, the 1080i is the most cost effective....but 720p is pretty damn good
Also when looking at a HDTV, make SURE it is being fed a HD signal..last night at the local Walmart, ALL the DTVs had a component signal fed to them...sure enough, it was 480i SD...............and I could see it..
Make SURE the TV will auto resize to 4x3 on std def material...otherwise it looks stretched and odd...(Polaroids are bad about this....Samsungs and most others will work right).....Take a small TV antenna or whip (I use the whip off my Dish UHF remote input so I can take it back home with me
and put it on the TV you want to really examine...see if it will pick up any local HD signals and watch them..donot watch the "inhouse" video tape, etc...(and btw the Walmart had something off VOOM HD...but again, they took a component 480 signal off the rcvr; so though they were rcving a HD signal, what the TVs were getting was NOT HD.....GGGGGGRRRRR I hate that)menotti1 said:
I don't think he gave you very good advice. The answer is not just black and white. Always remember that most sales people are usually pushing whatever puts cash in their pockets. A really good salesperson will try to discover what works best for his client, deliver the goods, and reap whatever rewards come their way. There is a difference.
A DLP or LCD projection set will cost about 30% less than a LCD or Plasma set. Even if you have to replace the lamp during the useful life of the set, the over-all cost of ownership can be quite reasonable. Depending on the size of the screen, I think you will find that they can be a bargain. This is especially true of larger screen sizes (60 or more inches) assuming you have a place to put it.
If hanging the set n the wall is your most important goal, then LCD or Plasma is for you. If you want a picture over 55" or so, then DLP makes sense. In fact, front projection DLP is very cheap, but not for everyone.
Sorry, but there is no single "best" solution. A good salesperson will work hard to discover what is best for his customer.
LCDs can have a display lag issue that causes bluring of moving objects. Not good if you're a sports nut. Watch the bottom screen "news aleart" crawl on various LCDs and you'll see it.
The faster the pixals go between on and "black" the sharper moving objects will be. 8 mS response time seems about the slowest out there. Latest & greatest models tout 4 mS response time and "dramatically less bluring of moving objects".
The faster the pixals go between on and "black" the sharper moving objects will be. 8 mS response time seems about the slowest out there. Latest & greatest models tout 4 mS response time and "dramatically less bluring of moving objects".
I found it VERY impportant to check out the "look angle" on any larger screen monitor.
I worked at a TV station a couple of years ago that the sales manager was sooooooo proud of himself for swinging a "deal" on a big screen projection tv/monitor for the lobby. It looked great - as long as you was sitting in a chair directly across from it. If you were standing or more than 10 degrees off center you couldn't see the dang thing. I talked to a friend of mine that had the same model and he had the same problem.
Sorry I don't remember the make/model. I'm thinking JVC but I could be wrong.
I worked at a TV station a couple of years ago that the sales manager was sooooooo proud of himself for swinging a "deal" on a big screen projection tv/monitor for the lobby. It looked great - as long as you was sitting in a chair directly across from it. If you were standing or more than 10 degrees off center you couldn't see the dang thing. I talked to a friend of mine that had the same model and he had the same problem.
Sorry I don't remember the make/model. I'm thinking JVC but I could be wrong.
Picture is not the only issue. I bought a 32" Viewsonic LCD 720P set. Pretty good price for that size set. Good enough picture for what I watch. Unfortunately, the geeks at Viewsonic don't watch TV & therefore "don't get" certain things---
1. My cable system has HD feeds from the local "Big 4" nets and PBS on their regular cable feed I get--up in superband, I think the cable guys call it~cable channels above 73. Let the set do an autoscan and it finds them---but you can't turn the set off! If you do, it won't find the HD channels, even if you were watching one when you turned the set off.
2. According to the Viewsonic geeks, the set was only designed to store the digital channels if you are using the antenna RF input (it has cable and antenna RF inputs). Great--I only have one local channel I can get off-air; and, of course, the set is not going to see the out-of-band "superband" channels on a conventional tuner.
3. If you turn off the TV, it "forgets" how to recognize the remote control. You have to re-program it every time.
So, I leave the TV on all the time. During the day it's on CNBC (if the cats could dial a phone they would have opened their own e-trade account by now); before bed, I freeze-frame on black coming out of stop-sets, and kill the sound.
1. My cable system has HD feeds from the local "Big 4" nets and PBS on their regular cable feed I get--up in superband, I think the cable guys call it~cable channels above 73. Let the set do an autoscan and it finds them---but you can't turn the set off! If you do, it won't find the HD channels, even if you were watching one when you turned the set off.
2. According to the Viewsonic geeks, the set was only designed to store the digital channels if you are using the antenna RF input (it has cable and antenna RF inputs). Great--I only have one local channel I can get off-air; and, of course, the set is not going to see the out-of-band "superband" channels on a conventional tuner.
3. If you turn off the TV, it "forgets" how to recognize the remote control. You have to re-program it every time.
So, I leave the TV on all the time. During the day it's on CNBC (if the cats could dial a phone they would have opened their own e-trade account by now); before bed, I freeze-frame on black coming out of stop-sets, and kill the sound.
I've heard that plasmas run very hot, and if the power is suddenly disrupted to the cooling fans (or device) it will degrade or blow out the lamps. I was told to get a UPS so I could power it off properly.
Not sure if that is malarkey or truth but it makes sense. I'd have a UPS on any sensitive electronics anyway.
Not sure if that is malarkey or truth but it makes sense. I'd have a UPS on any sensitive electronics anyway.
C
CW
Guest
Lancer said:
Plasma and DLP both run hot due to the design (DLP though is cool to the touch on the screen; its hot spot is the bulb inside). I have a LCD and DID put a UPS on it (I also have a UPS in the tech bedroom on my Win2003 server, DSL and Vonage gear)....a couple of weeks ago, a line recloser down the street opened for some reason (maybe squirrel committing suicide or something)....the house lights dimmed bad and I heard the UPS beep three times before the lights came back up to normal.....but the TV and sat rcvr kept on going (whew!
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