The typical "on-air" light uses a 110 volt AC light bulb. Not that familiar with the R-60 console, but many recent consoles use a warning light circuit that consists of a transistor that is "pulled to ground" when the appropriate mike channel is switched on. Whatever you do, don't try to hook the warning light directly to this circuit. You will let the magic smoke out. This circuit can't handle much current, and is usually designed for low D.C. voltages--12, maybe 24 volts. Not 110 volts AC. It is intended to be used with a relay or solid state switch which then turns on the warning light.
There used to be a company that made a packaged solid state relay for this purpose, but a quick internet search doesn't find much. Therein lies the problem for someone without technical skills. My R-55-E is connected to a solid state relay for the warning light. A 12 volt wall wart powers the SS relay, the positive lead goes to the positive terminal of the solid state relay, the negative terminal of the relay to the control lead from the console's warning circuit, and the negative or ground lead of the supply to the console's DC ground circuit. The "hot" lead or black wire from the 110 circuit for the warning light goes to one connection on the switch side of the solid state switch, while the black wire from the light goes to the other connection. The white, or neutral wires from the AC circuit and switch are permanently connected together.
On my Auditronics 2500 series console, I built a box with a 24 volt supply, and a 24 volt relay that is used to turn the warning light on and off. The relay's contacts are rated for 110 volts at 5 amps, much more than the light will ever draw.
Every console is slightly different, but there may be dip switches or jumpers that need to be connected to determine which channel turns the warning light circuit on.
The warning light circuit controls a transistor in the console, where there is a low voltage signal routed to the base lead of this transistor. When this happens, the transistor "turns on." In my circuit with the solid state relay, current from the wall wart then flows through this transistor to ground causing the solid state switch to turn on. This allows the much larger current from the AC circuit to flow into the warning light, and the light --lights. Since the solid state switch is nothing more than a big transistor, it gets rather warm from the 40 watts my warning light uses, so it is mounted in a metal utility box on the opposite side of the wall from the warning light. This also keeps the AC wiring covered up. In this particular studio, I had to use the Panduit surface mount type metal raceway to get electric up to the light; 22 gauge wire run through a different path is used to control the SS relay. Some jurisdictions would require a different method, and installation by an electrician.
As you can see, not exactly a project for someone without some wiring experience.
