I have DXed a Reloj (for about 15 seconds) and another Cuban from Tennessee on FM. If there are contraband ways to receive Dish Network in Cuba, you'd think there'd be a few FM radios running around.
There is no shortage of FM radios. The government operates about 75 FM stations, and radio's are for sale. But given the state of the economy where the average weekly salary is $20, not everyone can get one.
And the government controls all programming, mostly with national networks.