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Satellite reciever audio out to transmiter

S

southerneng

Ok....here we go.....

Here is the situation that I have. Maybe someone has a solution to my problem or a way to buy some time.

I know that DL II (Arrakis) automation sys is not the most well liked automation sys, but in past years it has definately served its purpose. One AM station that I am under contract with, is prone to constant lighting in the studio. (by the way, I'm not an engineer, but know enough to get by with. I have an engineer that is under contract, but only when I can't resolve it first kinda BuDgEt....know what I mean)

Anyways, the AM has been off the air for quite sometime and is seems as though that the BE audio console has been struck, along with maybe the DL II. Anyways, a few weeks ago I decided it was time to do something about it. So, I go and fire up the DL II and all I get is a dos prompt and something about the SCII....whatever the abbreaviation is for the scuzzy card..... so I think HAH! the card is bad. The tech guy at my sister station in the group says he has a production end for the DL II and he was gonna part it out for my sake. So I dropped it off with him and still it's there about 5 weeks later. but in the mean time I'm trying to come up with a solution to get me by. (by the way he is 3 hours from me)
so I have found a free software that will automate satellite. windows of course, ( and it says it will...haven't got it to work yet) but what I am trying to do is get satellite audio into a basic computer. Yes same cheap ole sound blaster card. the reason for this is that is all i have. now the stumper for me is that the board has been hit as well.....So I've tried to put audio directly into the PC from the reciever, but it is to HOT.(loud) where do I go from here? any solutions? Ideas?

Thanks ahead for the prompt replies!

southerneng
 
Pad the audio with an H pad . Google it for various types and values. the one I remember is a 600 ohm center plus 600 ohm to each leg. resistors form an H. make 2 for stereo.

Normally there is some control on the receiver and the line in on a cheap sound card will handle line in level. Don't hesitate to use the CD in and make a custom wire that goes directly to the sound card.

Unity 4000 has level control on the software and it is controller from the front panel display.
 
Make sure you are using the line in jack on the sound card and not the mic in. Some sound cards don't have a line in but the mic in has a 20 dB attenuation option that you can turn on in the mixer. If that doesn't help, run one of the balanced audio wires from the satellite receiver (don't use the other wire since the sound card is unbalanced) through a 10K resistor to the the sound card. If the audio is still hot, install a resistor across the sound card input to ground (play around with the value) to further attenuate the signal.

10K
+ ----/\/\/--------------> Plug Tip
Satellite | Sound
- --- (NC) >
< (1K to 10K)
Receiver > Card
|
G ----------------------> Plug Ground
 
Should you maybe try to isolate the audio via a repeat coil and use some optoisolators for your closures to prevent lighnting from coming in to the equipment?

Incedently, you might want to think about grounding stuff better before you end up with bigger issues. You should get someone to drill at least two test wells 50 feet deep or more, then run copper strap out to them and down the hole. Mix the dirt and lots of copper sulfate together and put it back in the hole. Then, tie your neutral on your electrical box back to the tower ground and the test wells via strap. Copper strap all the racks together and the console to that, etc. It all needs to be copper strap to keep stray capaciance down. Keep the runs as short as possible and be sure to solder the straps together with ROSIN CORE solder. Say goodbye to all the further problems you'd have to endure if you didn't fix the REAL problem. Next time it might be LOT worse. Also, if you want to really protect your equipment from AC bumps, go get yourself a sola ferroresonate transformer. They're big and run hot, but it'll keep your stuff from pretty much ever seeing all the BS coming from the utility.

Good luck!
 
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